Photo Credit: Alexa Welch Edlund/Times Dispatch
Dana Craig almost decided her food was too pretty to eat, then remembered she had a photographer with her.
Darn you, Owen Lane and your culinary imagination. You just had to go and open your first solo operation after successful stints at Helen’s, Bacchus, The Track and Stronghill, making me so giddy I’ve unwittingly become a photographer of my food.
And I didn’t stop there. Tiffany Gellner, co-owner and Lane’s fiancée , is responsible for The Magpie’s unique and insanely charming décor, wrought with intricate details that demand nearly as much photographic attention as Lane’s eccentric menu.
She goes on to wax quixotic on her culinary experience.
The meaty lobster tail was battered and fried to a sweet, fluffy golden brown. I thought this would smother the lobster’s delicacy, but no. Creamy tomato-coconut and zesty mango-horseradish sauces upped the wow factor.
Rich and deep, beef tongue tastes extremely meaty, almost like a pot roast, only more intense. The ravioli were accented with an amazing asparagus puree, but the mellow flavors of Dave & Dee’s oyster mushrooms and grilled white corn kernels didn’t have enough presence to balance the tongue’s boldness.
I’ll admit $29 sounds like a lot for one entree, but The Magpie’s cast iron-seared antelope with rosemary grits, collards and drunken blackberry sauce is worth saving for.
I’m going to look in the fridge and see if we got any leftover antelope. You on the other hand can waltz on down to the Magpie and tell them you heard about it here. Maybe that will earn me some brownie points with the chef.
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